Sitting on the surf washed sand looking out into the deep blue water. I ponder for a moment the quest I am about to make. Into the waves on my board pushing over the tops of white curls. Each one rises and falls tipping towards the sky and then dropping you into a rift. Onward I push until I sit far off shore and the beach looks like a thin line on the horizon. Waiting for my moment, I sit anxiously, as one wave then another rolls by. I look back and see the curl waiting to sweep me up then off I go into the pipe! Surrounded by thundering water and pounding surf, I cut and glide in and out of the oceans grasp! Looking for the perfect ride inside the pipe of water, holding my breath as I feel the rush! On to the beach, getting ever closer, as I seek to master the wave. Lost in a small span of time, bending and twisting with the wave as I seek the ride of my life! Then it is over as quickly as it began, the rush fades and I paddle out into the unknown waiting for the next wave that will carry me inside the pipe once again.